The short answer

Protect the cabinet and trace the first wet point before ordering a disposal. Water at the bottom can start at the sink flange, dishwasher hose, drain elbow, mounting ring, or disposal body. A new flange seal will not fix a cracked body, and a new disposal will not correct a loose sink or blocked drain connection.

Run a dry-to-wet inspection

Area Observation What it can separate
Sink flange Water appears around the rim during a sink test Flange seal versus lower connection.
Mounting ring Drip begins below the flange Installation or seal alignment.
Dishwasher inlet Wet hose or clamp Appliance drain connection.
Drain elbow Drip after disposal runs Gasket, pipe, or vibration.
Body seam Water emerges from housing Disposal replacement boundary.

Turn the unit off and isolate power according to the manufacturer before inspecting beneath it. Do not reach into the chamber, loosen a hardwired connection, or run the disposal while your hands are in the cabinet. Use dry paper around one joint at a time and photograph the first mark.

Ask for a scoped estimate

The service should identify the leak point, whether the sink must be supported or removed, whether the dishwasher inlet is affected, and whether disposal, flange, trap, or drain work is included. Cabinet swelling and flooring damage should be recorded separately from the plumbing repair.

Limits

This guide is not a disposal-removal procedure. Electrical, active leak, or structural cabinet concerns need qualified help.

Sources